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TIME: Almanac 1995
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<text id=89TT0842>
<title>
Mar. 27, 1989: Dining With Invisible Danger
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1989
Mar. 27, 1989 Is Anything Safe?
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
NATION, Page 28
Dining with Invisible Danger
</hdr><body>
<p>Meals are rarely deadly, but consumers have reason to complain
</p>
<p>By Anastasia Toufexis
</p>
<p> Remember the good old days when Americans did not know too
much about what they were eating and drinking? People would
nod approvingly as they pushed their carts through supermarkets.
The fruits and vegetables were piled high in glistening mounds,
the pristine boxes and shiny cans crammed on shelves, the
chickens sitting plumply in refrigerated cases, and the fish
shimmering on crystalline beds of ice. The entire scene seemed
drenched in wholesomeness.
</p>
<p> Those days are long gone. Last week's panics over poisoned
grapes and tainted apples were merely the latest in a
relentless series of food scares. Anyone who reads newspapers
or watches TV knows that invisible dangers lurk in every aisle
of the grocery store. Shoppers have been told that the produce
is peppered with pesticides, the boxes and cans packed with
treacherous additives, the meat stuffed with powerful drugs, the
chickens spattered with bacteria, and the fish steeped in
chemical wastes. Even the cool, clear water that comes out of
every kitchen tap is suspected of being a witch's brew laced
with lead, microorganisms and industrial pollutants. To many
people, eating and drinking have become death-defying feats. No
wonder sales of "organic" foods and bottled waters have surged
to new heights.
</p>
<p> Is the growing paranoia justified? How safe are the U.S.
food and water supplies? The reassuring answer: very safe. In
fact, the country's food and water systems are the safest in its
history and among the safest in the world today. Despite all the
alarms, the dangers to human health appear to be quite small.
</p>
<p> Many Americans harbor a grossly distorted and exaggerated
view of most of the risks surrounding food. Fergus Clydesdale,
head of the department of food science and nutrition at the
University of Massachusetts-Amherst, says bluntly that if the
dangers from bacterially contaminated chicken were as great as
some people believe, "the streets would be littered with people
lying in the gutters."
</p>
<p> Though the public increasingly demands no-risk food, there
is no such thing. Bruce Ames, chairman of the biochemistry
department at the University of California, Berkeley, points out
that up to 10% of a plant's weight is made up of natural
pesticides. Says he: "Since plants do not have jaws or teeth to
protect themselves, they employ chemical warfare." And many
naturally produced chemicals, though occurring in tiny amounts,
prove to be potent carcinogens in laboratory tests. Mushrooms
and broccoli might be banned if they were judged by the same
standards that apply to food additives. Declares Christina
Stark, a nutritionist at Cornell University: "We've got far
worse natural chemicals in the food supply than anything
man-made."
</p>
<p> Yet the issues are not that simple. While Americans have no
reason to be terrified to sit down at the dinner table, they
have every reason to demand significant improvements in food and
water safety. They unwittingly and unwillingly ingest too much
of too many dangerous chemicals. If food already contains
natural carcinogens, it does not make much sense to add dozens
of new man-made ones. Though most people will withstand the
small amounts of contaminants generally found in food and water,
at least a few individuals will probably get cancer one day
because of what they eat and drink.
</p>
<p> To make good food and water supplies even better, the
Government needs to tighten its regulatory standards, stiffen
its inspection program and strengthen its enforcement policies.
The food industry should modify some long-accepted practices or
turn to less hazardous alternatives. Perhaps most important,
consumers will have to do a better job of learning how to handle
and cook food properly. The problems that need to be addressed
exist all along the food-supply chain, from fields to processing
plants to kitchens.
</p>
</body></article>
</text>